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I just finished a course at the Pratt Institute where I learned about every step in the perfume production process, among them some some important tips about fragrance shopping. These five will come in handy the next time you're looking for a new scent:
1. Don't base your opinion on the perfume's description. A fragrance can contain hundreds of ingredients, so don't let a couple of notes sway your decision. You may know that there's a particular smell you're not fond of — for instance, I'm not really a fan of tuberose — but it doesn't mean you won't love a fragrance that features it, and you may not even detect it in the final product at all.
2. Fragrances don't smell differently on different skin types. Or, at least they shouldn't, as we all have the same skin pH. What can change how a fragrance smells from person to person is the products they already have on their skin, such as lingering body wash or moisturizer. Before heading out to test perfumes, go through your normal beauty regime, so you'll have a better sense of how the perfume will smell on your skin on a daily basis.
3. Wrists aren't always the best spot to try fragrances. Metal jewelry can often alter how a perfume smells. Instead, spray on the top of your arms, roll down your sleeves, and wear the fragrance for the rest of the day. This will allow the fragrance to come to you throughout the day.
4. When using blotting papers, wait until the fragrance is completely dry before smelling it. Allowing the perfume to dry will give it time for all of the notes to develop. Better yet, toss the blotter in your purse and come back to it later. When you open your purse later on, the fragrance should really envelop you.
5. Your senses can become overwhelmed. To clear your nose between testing fragrances, smell your skin or shirt. This should offset some of the strong notes you smelled before, and give your senses time to adjust before your next perfume test.
Mary Clarke is a senior product analyst in the Good Housekeeping Research Institute.
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The bad news first: No hair dryer is actually going to make you enjoy the process of drying your hair. The sectioning, the repinning, the eventual shoulder cramp...it all blows (pun shamelessly intended). We could argue about whether or not it's an actually necessary evil, but its general suckage still stands. And if you're going to subject yourself to drying your hair as a semi-regular-to-habitual torture, it's also important to come to terms with the fact that no hair dryer, no matter how technologically savvy it is, will instantly make you better at drying your hair. That's why there are professionals we pay for this kind of thing.
But, contrary to what many believe, the quality of your hair dryerdoes matter. A worthwhile hot tool can make the difference between hair that's actually manageable and hair that you'd rather shave off and be done with. The two pillars of a good hair dryer are heat and control. Depending on your hair type, you'll want to really take advantage of the different Cool, Warm, and Hot settings, along with the varying air speeds (fine hair does well with cool-to-warm temperature, while curly hair needs high heat at a low air speed). A good hair dryer might set you back $200, but if you take care of it, it'll last at least a decade and will can save you money on spur-of-the-moment appointments at DryBar.
'You need to buy a good quality one,” said Dale Delaporte ofPrema, the Australian salon that just opened their first US location in New York's Lower East Side. And since, no matter what, professionals do it better, we pressed for a recommendation: “TheT3 Featherweight Luxe 2i is easy to use, and nice and lightweight, so it's not going to feel like you just finished a bicep class after blowing out your bangs. It also isn't so powerful that you feel like it might launch itself to space every time you turn it on. The nozzle concentrates the airflow so that it slides right over your hair minimizing frizz,”
Across town in the Meatpacking District, Bumble and bumble's Allen Thomas Wood recommended the Twin Turbo 2600. “We swear by it at Bumble. It is affordable, durable, powerful and gets the job done. I'm partial to its sleek solid black finish and love that it is straightforward without the gimmicks of ceramic coating or ionic technology,” Bonuses that do make it worth the cash: four heat settings, plus a cold shot, an anti-overheating device, and two nozzles.
GHD is an office favorite (you can absolutely suck at blowdrying your own hair and it'll still come out soft and manageable with it), but in case you don't believe us, take L'Oréal Paris Celebrity Stylist Mara Roszak's recommendation: “I love the GHD Professional Hairdryer—the right amount of power and just never fails me. It leaves hair nice and shiny no matter what. And they are prettier to look at than most,” Bathroom aesthetics are not to be ignored here.
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Many of us rely on makeup every day. Unfortunately, wearing makeup can be harmful to our skin. Here are our top five tips for using makeup without harming your skin:
Wash Your Makeup Off As Soon As Possible
Whenever you get home from work or running errands or whenever you are done for the day, remove your makeup as soon as possible. Makeup clogs your pores preventing your skin from breathing. This can lead to oily or discoloured skin and blemishes. Removing makeup as soon as you can will give your skin the chance to breathe and replenish.
Whatever you do, do not go to bed still wearing your make up. We also recommend that you avoid wearing make up on as many days as possible to give your skin a break. Be particularly careful about applying makeup if you’ve performed an extraction facial procedure on your own, as skin products and open skin can be uncomfortable.
Wash your make up off thoroughly using a cleanser that’s right for your skin. Remove eye makeup with makeup remover designed especially for eyes. Your eyes and the area around your eyes are particularly delicate. To avoid causing unnecessary damage, remove eye makeup by dabbing eye makeup remover onto a makeup pad and gently wiping it across your eyes.
Make Sure You’re Choosing Makeup that’s Right for Your Skin
Everyone’s skin is different. Get to know your skin and whether it is oily, dry or sensitive. This will help you choose make up products that are right for you.
Some ingredients in makeup can cause allergies or irritation. Avoid creating an allergic reaction all over your face by testing new make up on a small patch of skin on your arm. It’s always better to be safe than sorry.
Don’t Share Brushes.
Sharing brushes means sharing bacteria and germs. Play it safe and only use your own brushes.
Also be sure to clean your own brushes. Makeup brushes build up old makeup, dead skin cells and bacteria – all the things you don’t want to be spreading across your face. Depending on how often you use your brushes, you should be cleaning them roughly every one or two weeks. A designated makeup brush cleanser will work or otherwise you could use a sulphate-free shampoo (try a baby shampoo) or even plain old soap.
Choose a Foundation With SPF 15+
In the harsh Australian climate, a foundation with SPF 15 (at least) is an essential.
An SPF foundation will protect your skin from UV rays while allowing you to still wear makeup. You’ll be protecting your skin from sun damage, premature wrinkles and the risk of skin cancer. If you’re looking for a tan, we strongly recommend a much safer spray tan- contrary to popular belief, they CAN look natural!
Less is More
Always remember, that the more makeup you pile on, the more damage you’ll be doing to your skin. As we’ve mentioned, makeup clogs your pores and prevents your skin from the nutrients it needs from oxygen and sunlight. Give your skin a break by applying as little makeup as you can and avoid caking on layers of foundation. Let your natural beauty shine through.
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Our panel of beauty experts has picked the best new lip colours for 2013. Find out which one might just be the best shade of red ever!
From dramatic reds to deep purples, these lipsticks are hot, hot, hot
PRO PICK
Beauty buffs love this easy-to-use, highly pigmented crayon in what just might be the best red ever.
NARS VELVET MATTE LIP PENCIL IN DRAGON GIRL, $30.
NICE PRICE
This balm-like formula delivers sheer colour that’ll convert any gloss girl into a lipstick-loving lady.
MAYBELLINE NEW YORK COLOR WHISPER BY COLOR SENSATIONAL LIPSTICK IN A PLUM PROSPECT, $10.
WORTH THE MONEY
Finding the perfect matte lip colour is not always easy, but when we tried this one, the texture was so creamy it was love at first swipe.
GIVENCHY LE ROUGE INTENSE COLOR SENSUOUSLY MAT LIP COLOUR IN CARMIN ESCARPIN, $38.
MOST INNOVATIVE
A moisturizing formula packed with antioxidants that makes for healthy, beautiful lips.
LISE WATIER ROUGE FONDANT SUPRÊME LIPSTICK IN FREIDA, $24.
ECO CHIC
Velvety texture in bold, gorgeous shades with organic ingredients good enough to eat: What more could you want?
BITE BEAUTY LUMINOUS CRÈME LIPSTICK IN QUINCE, $28.
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Cleansing is key to great skin. Keep it simple and gentle, and be faithful morning and night.
Cleansing is key to great skin. Keep it simple and gentle, and be faithful morning and night
PRO PICK
At the top of any dermatologist’s list, this gentle fragrance-free cleanser won’t dry out skin.
CETAPHIL OILY SKIN CLEANSER, $18.
NICE PRICE
A close relative of the iconic amber soap, this hypoallergenic formula expertly removes a day’s worth of dirt and makeup.
NEUTROGENA ULTRA GENTLE DAILY CLEANSER, $13.
WORTH THE MONEY
Don’t let the oil word scare you off. Thanks to eight ancient skin- loving botanicals, your skin will be moist, soft and radiant.
SHU UEMURA ULTIME8 SUBLIME BEAUTY CLEANSING OIL, $48.
MOST INNOVATIVE
This mild gel-cream can be simply rinsed off or wiped away with a cloth—no water required. And it’s safe for sensitive skin types.
DERMALOGICA ULTRACALMING CLEANSER, $44.
CULT FAVOURITE
Cleanse and revive your skin with the cooling, soothing benefits of aloe—perfect for irritated skin.
YVES ROCHER CULTURE BIO REFRESHING GEL CLEANSER WITH ORGANIC ALOE VERA, $18.
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Five best makeup removers
Beauty 100: The most effective, no-fuss makeup removers that make your night time skin care routine a cinch
Rub on, wash off: if only removing our makeup was that easy. With layers of serum, moisturizer and sunscreen to cut through; raccoon eyes to avoid and dark-hued lip stains to wipe, not scrub, away — you need to turn to the pros. Here are our top five makeup removers and why we adore them.
Klorane Soothing Make-up Remover Wipes
On the go: Klorane Soothing Make-up Remover Wipes, $11.
In constant motion with never enough time to sit still? We hear you. Toss these soothing wipes in your purse, gym bag or clutch and you’ll be ready for any make-up removing emergency.
Almay Moisturizing Eye Makeup Remover Pads
No fuss: AlmayMoisturizing Eye Makeup Remover Pads, $8.
Perfect for the lazy gal, these eye makeup remover pads are no fuss, no muss. Just wipe the solution-soaked pad across your eyes and watch your eyeliner, mascara (yes, even waterproof) and eyeshadow disappear.
Marcelle Gentle Make-Up Remover for Sensitive Eyes
Top seller: Marcelle Gentle Make-Up Remover for Sensitive Eyes, $15.
Even the most sensitive I-wear-sunglasses-year-round woman can safely take off her mascara with this top-selling eye makeup remover. There’s no burning, redness, stinging or itching.
After a long day there’s nothing more frustrating than having to spend 10 minutes scrubbing your eyes in an attempt to get rid of all your makeup and not have it all come off. This powerful, yet super gentle remover does the trick minus the pain.
Multi-taskers rejoice: this water-based makeup remover isn’t solely for your eyes. It banishes blush, foundation, powder, lipstick and everything in between, too. Swipe it on, wash it off, go to bed.
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Do you know which is the best face cleansing method for you? We compare the three main types to help you get fresher, more radiant skin
Getty Images
We all know that it’s imperative to remove our makeup before bed, but if you’re anything like me, you’re not certain of the best way to do it. I know people who use everything from Vaseline to baby wipes, but I’m not sold on those options so I set out to find out what I should be using and why.
Choosing the right makeup remover, or “cleanser” is super important because it dictates how your skin will respond to the other products you apply to your face. For example, if you use a product that’s too harsh, your skin will be dry, no matter how much moisturizer you put on it. Removing your makeup by wiping off a greasy cream can clog pores and leave a film on the skin, which will prevent your other products from penetrating, explains Paula Begoun in her book, The Beauty Bible, where she introduces three main types of cleanser. 1. Wipe-off cleansers
What they are: Milky formulas, creams and lotions that are removed, along with makeup on a cotton pad. Benefits: This product can be gentle and effectively removes makeup while leaving the skin feeling cool and clean. Look for: A variety that is designed for sensitive skin that is less likely to cause irritation through rubbing and you want one that doesn’t leave a greasy film on the skin. Examples: Bioderma Sensibio H20 sensitive skin solution, NeoStrata oil free gel cleanser, Nivea eye make-up remover
2. Wipes
What they are: Disposable cloths that come pre-soaked in wipe-off cleansers. Benefits: Easy, effective and efficient. Especially good for travel because there’s often no need to rinse afterwards. Look for: Cloths that are ultra soft and not abrasive on the skin or with a gentle formula for sensitive skin. Examples: Neutrogena make-up remover cleansing towelettes, Yes To cucumbers natural glow facial towelettes, Sephora Face 25 makeup removing wipes – face, eyes and lips
3. Water-soluble cleansers
What they are: Creams, lotions that you emulsify with your fingertips, massage into your face and rinse off. Benefits: Most gentle way to remove makeup because they’re less drying than other makeup removers and require less pulling of the skin to remove than wipe-off formulas. There’s no need for extra cotton pads. Look for: A clean feeling after all of your make up and the product has been washed off, without a greasy residue left behind. Examples: La Claree Oliv’ gentle cleansing milk with olive leaf extract, Cetaphil gentle skin cleanser,
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For the last few months, I've been battling the craziest, most annoying case of dry, tight, painful, peeling lips.
At first, I blamed it on an all-natural lip product I'd been testing.
But then I realized my lips were still a mess, even when I hadn't used it in weeks. In fact, I couldn't even pinpoint any one lip balm or lip colour as the source, since I'm constantly switching them up for the purposes of this blog. No matter what was in my rotation, I STILL had chapped lips.
So then I became convinced I had some kind of vitamin deficiency. Which would be weird, because I regularly track things in Cron-o-meter and usually hit or exceed every nutritional target.
Finally, a few weeks ago, I figured it out. I am allergic to... vitamin E! And possibly several other ingredients commonly found in lip balms.
As it turns out, many lip products contain allergens and irritants that end up perpetuating the very problems we're trying to treat: dryness, peeling, cracking and flaking. Insane, right?
If you, too, have suffered from chapped lips that don't ever seem to go away, one of these ingredients could be the culprit:
1. VITAMIN E
Just about every lip balm label I've looked at contains some form of vitamin E. A thick, sticky oil, you'd figure it would be the perfect lip hydrator. But it's not for everyone.
This Dermatologic Surgery study found that 33 percent of patients developed contact dermatitis from applying topical vitamin E. The Contact Dermatitis Institute also lists vitamin E (dl-alpha-tocopherol) as one of the most prevalent allergens.
Some of the ways vitamin E might appear on a lip balm's ingredient label include: natural vitamin E oil, tocopherol or tocopheryl acetate. It can be man-made or derived from plants, but contrary to popular opinion, both forms can be allergenic.
One reason it took me so long to figure out that vitamin E was the source of my chapped lips is because I was using an all-natural vitamin E oil every night as my lip moisturizer. It didn't even occur to me that it could be allergenic! It was only through a complete elimination, i.e. not putting any products on my mouth for a whole week, that I was able to identify the source. Now, I know that my natural vitamin E oil is derived from soy, so it is possible that the soy is what I was really reacting to. But since tocopheryl acetate, the synthetic vitamin E, is considered evenmoreallergenic onEWG's database, I think I'll just stay away from ALL types of vitamin E from now on. Unless it's quite far down on the ingredients list, it will probably irritate me.
2. CASTOR OIL
Castor oil is another thick, viscous liquid, and if you look, it's found in a heck of a lot of lip products. Derived from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant, it is comprised of about 80 to 90 percent ricinoleic acid.
The problem with ricinoleic acid is that it can be an allergen—some even say, the main one behind chapped and inflamed lips. This Contact Dermatitis study found that ricinoleic acid was the most common contact allergen, accounting for 54 percent of contact chelitis.
None of this surprises me, considering my highly traumatic experience with castor oil and the Oil Cleansing Method. Not only is it extremely drying, but I suspect my terrible reaction started off as contact dermatitis, which left me vulnerable to infection... and finally, turned into full-fledged acne. I can't say for sure yet whether castor oil is a problem on my lips or just my face, but I will always look at it with deep suspicion!
It's less likely, but other oils in lip balms, such as coconut, olive and almond, can be allergens, too.
3. BEESWAX
I don't mean to point fingers at specific brands here, but the one that comes to mind when you think of beeswax lip balm is obviously Burt's Bees. Accroding to Dr. Cynthia Bailey, it's the product she sees the most problems with.
The beeswax in your lip balm might not be that soothing, after all. (Photo: Rakka)
The issue is the propolis that gets mixed in with the beeswax. Propolis is a kind of "glue" that bees make from tree and plant resins to fill in the spaces in their hives. According to this Journal of Pharmacy and Bioallied Sciences study, it seems to be one of the most frequent contact sensitizers, with possible reactions including chelitis and peeling lips.
I guess this is why I didn't got the hype over the original Burt's Bees lip balms! They never seemed to work for me, so probably I have some minor sensitivity. I'm allergic to honey, so I'm sure there is some link with bees and bee products in general. Too bad, so sad!
4. LANOLIN
Lanolin is a waxy substance that is secreted by the oil glands of sheep, like this fella below. It is used in lip balms such as the cult favourite Lanolipsbecause of its highly emollient properties and ability to prevent water loss.
Lanolin, derived from the oil glands of sheep, is a known allergen in lip products. (Photo: noquarter)
For those who aren't sensitive, lanolin can be great. Dior Crème Abricot, for example, contains lanolin and is my most favourite cuticle cream in the world. (I hear some people even use that on their lips!)
However, lips lack oil glands and could be more reactive to it. Dr. Sharon Jacob considers lanolin a "significant sensitizer," and on the "A-List" for top allergens.
If you do a search for "Lanolips allergy," there appears to be quite a number of people who can't use lanolin.
5. FRAGRANCES AND FLAVOURINGS
It should come as no surprise that fragrances can be allergens. One would think perfumes would have no place in our lip balms, but often, they are used to mask unpleasant smells from other chemicals, or to add flavouring.
The Contact Dermatitis Institute has identified two fragrance mixes—list oneand list two—that are problematic, including geraniol, citronellol and cinnamaldehyde. These can be derived from plant, animal and synthetic sources, so just because a lip balm is 100 percent natural does not mean it is free from potentially allergenic fragrances.
Peppermint oil is one of the worst offenders. This Dermatitis study tested sensitivity to propolis, lanolin, coconut oil, almond oil, peppermint oil and vitamin E. Out of all those things, the peppermint oil was shown to be the most likely culprit in the patients' acute contact dermatitis.
Peppermint is one of the most irritating ingredients in lip balms. (Photo: Michael Lehet)
Other fragrance/flavour ingredients to watch out for include menthol, camphor, eucalyptus and limonene.
6. SUNSCREEN
If you're especially diligent about always wearing SPF on your lips, that could be the cause of chronic chapping, at least if you're using products that protect with chemicals, not minerals. Studies such as this one in Photodermatology, Photoimmunology & Photomedicine have identified chemical sunscreens as a cause of allergic skin reactions.
Chemical sunscreen ingredients may cause allergic skin reactions. (Photo: Tyler)
Oxybenzone (also known as benzophenone-3), octinoxate, avobenzone, octisalate and octylcrylene are the hard-to-pronounce words to avoid on your labels.
Instead, choose lip balms with mineral sunblocks such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which shouldn't give you any issues.
WHAT TO DO IF YOU SUSPECT AN ALLERGEN
If you are allergic to an ingredient, signs such as dryness, tightness, flaking and peeling should should appear within a few days of your lips
